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Trip to Washington

Washington, Alaska and Oregon: Aug-Sept, 2002

Sitka, Alaska - MAP

Sitka, Alaska was once the capital city of early Russian America.  Until 1906, it was also the capital of Alaska; at that time Alaska's capital was moved to the City of Juneau.  Sitka is found on the Baranof Island in Alaska and has many interesting sites buildings and monuments.  It is one of the only cities that lies outside of the Inside Passage on the western coast of the island.  The city is also the major city found on the famous island.  It is protected from the furious and violent Northern Pacific Ocean by the numerous islands located in the harbor.  First inhabited over 1500 years ago by ancestors of the Tlingit people, the name Sitka comes from the Tlingit name for their village, Shee Atika, meaning "people on the outside of the Shee."  Dominating the city skyline is a 3,200 foot high dormant volcano called Mount Edgecumbe.  The cloudy day that we were in port, we did not see this famous landmark.  In addition to the cultural center the city has a vibrant college community and is fascinated with its roots tied to three major cultures of the native "Tlingit" people, Russia and America.  Many people from the lower 48, have chosen to make Sitka their home although nearly a quarter of the people claim the native heritage as their roots.  More info on Sitka

 

"All signs point to down town."

 

Watching the Russian Dancers at Harrigan Centennial Hall

For 33 years, Sitka, Alaska has celebrated the Russian culture by dancing for the city's visitors.  During our visit we were privileged to see spirited performances of traditional Russian folk dances by a the New Archangel Dancers.  During our visit they danced several of their over 30 dance repertoire that they have performed for for audiences around world.  Whether you're from Russia, the Ukraine, Georgia, or Belarus you would recognize your heritage in the dances performed by this troupe.  The all female troupe performed at the Harrigan Centennial Hall which also houses the comprehensive Isabel Miller Museum.  In the Museum we saw several exhibits covering every aspect of Sitka's rich history.  It was a truly remarkable museum with very able, knowledgeable and enthusiastic guides.  It was a shame that most of the people that attended the folk dance, missed the museum.

At that event, seniors who probably lived in the area for many years also recited the history of the Alaskan flag for us.  “The blue field is for the Alaska sky and the forget-me-not, an Alaskan flower. The North Star is for the future state of Alaska, the most northerly in the union. The Dipper is for the Great Bear — symbolizing strength.”

 

   

 

Outside of the cultural center and museum sits the statue of Trader Alexander Baranov.

Alexander Baranov barged into the area and established a fort which later expanded into the town of New Archangel, now known as Sitka.  In 1808, the settlement became the capital of the Russian Colony, a wilderness empire that extended from the Aleutian Islands to Fort Ross north of San Francisco.

Alexander Baranov

 

Inside of the Isabel Miller Museum and gift shop.

 

St. Michael's Russian Orthodox Cathedral

One of Sitka's most famous landmarks is the Russian Orthodox cathedral on Lincoln Street.  The church houses some of the most important and treasured Russian icons in United States, including priceless paintings, investments, and jeweled wedding crowns that are more than 100 years old.  Like many visitors, I took several pictures outside of the famous structure and seat of Alaska's Russian Orthodox church.  St. Michaels was originally built in 1840 and burned in January 1966.  During the next decade the church was rebuilt based on its original plans.  The church was originally designed and built by the famed in greatest Orthodox missionary in an Alaska Bishop Ivan Veniaminov.  The only difference between the original structure and the current one is that it is fire retardant.  Visitors are charged a $2 fee to enter the church where there are no pews or chairs available for the congregation to sit because the congregation feels that "in as much as that person would not sit in the presence of royalty, neither would one sit in the presence of God."

 

 

The Sitka Pioneers Home (a convalescent home) dates from 1913, the current four-story building with a red tile roof was built in 1934.  It is one of several homes built for this purpose in Alaska.  Its sole purpose was to take care of indigent men who came north with a Klondike rush to make their fortune.  These men never realize their quest to become rich as gold prospectors.  Many died penniless.  The "pioneer home" in Sitka was the first erected to take care of these people.  Today, many people from diverse backgrounds stay in homes like these.

 

A cemetery, local housing and Russian Block House are located behind the Sitka Pioneers Home.  It is located in the western portion of the city.

 

   

 

 

"The Prospector"

In recognition of the days of the pioneers and prospectors, "The Prospector", was cast in bronze and stands 13.5 tall.  the statue is located in front of the Sitka Pioneers Home, a convalescent home for the residents of Sitka.  The sculptor, Victor Alonzo Lewis, modeled the structure after one of Alaska's most famous pioneers, "Skagway Bill" Fonda.  Lewis passed away before the sculpture could be put in place in 1949.

 

 

In Sitka National Historic Park or Totem Park you find a wilderness of Sitka Spruce trees as well as shrubs and huckleberries, ferns and flowers.  There you walk from totem pole to totem pole on winding paths and pleasant trails.  The park is located in close proximity to the center of the city at the mouth of the Indian River and is visible from the harbor.  It was at this site that native Tlingit people build their fort for protection against their enemies.  One such enemy was Alexander Barron, a trader and captain of the Russian Man of War, the ship "Neva", manned by Russian naval men who killed their people and destroyed their fort with their canon barrage in 1799. 

Also located in the park in front of Sitka's Pioneer Home is Totem Square.  There you see one of Sitka's totems and cannon aimed at the harbor to the south.  The totem was carved with images of animals, and ancestors, and supernatural beings representing the family crest and clan history.  Behind the square and to the west of the Pioneer Home is the Tlingit Native Dance Center, you can see it below the Russian block house in the center photograph.  Every day, native dancers perform for audiences in the replica of a traditional clan house educating all about their heritage, celebrating with songs that have been passed down from generation to generation.

   

 

Proud of their Russian Heritage - banners decorate the light poles lining the street.

 

Sitka's mosquitoes are some of the largest that I've ever seen.

Our ship and the islands in harbor near Sitka

 

More info on Sitka

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©1994-2010 Bruce L Oliver, Enfield, CT

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